Learn How to Surf the Big Ones!
So you want to learn how to surf like a big Kahuna and hang 10 like a pro? Here are some tips to help you get started.
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Equipment: Surfing is a great sport that requires a minimum of equipment compared to a lot of other sports. But there are a few things you need to have, and a few other things you may want to have in order to make your experience better.
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First and foremost you need a board of course! When you watch the pros ride they are generally riding small, narrow boards that allow them to maximize their performance. But for starting out it makes more sense to get a wider, longer board. A bigger board will make it easier for you to float, easier to paddle, and easier to balance on once you get to your feet. Start on a longer wider board and then as you gain experience and ability you can transition to a smaller board. You will probably find that you’ll want to hang onto your longer board though because they are great fun in smaller conditions when the shorter boards are a lot of work.
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Wax: Many people are familiar with ski and snowboard wax – which goes on the underside of the board and is used to decrease friction. Surfboard wax is a totally different animal though. The wax is applied to the top of the board and it’s function is to increase the rider’s grip on the board. Without wax on your board you would likely find yourself slipping off of the board! There are warm water and cold water waxes, so check your water temperatures before you go out and adjust your wax accordingly.
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Wet suits: Depending on how cold the water is you may want to invest in a wet suit. A wet suit will help to keep you warm so that you can stay out in the water longer. There are full-length wet suits of varying thickness for different water temperatures as well as shorter wet suits that are generally used in warmer waters. Keep in mind that while a thicker wet suit keeps you warmer, it also restricts your range of motion, so make sure and talk to your local surf shop employees and see what they recommend.
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Leashes: A leash is a device that attaches the board to your ankle so that every time you wipe out you won’t have to swim all the way in to shore to retrieve your surf board.
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Sunscreen: This is a must! Skin cancer is the single most common type of cancer and the best way to prevent it is to wear sunscreen! Invest in a quality, waterproof sunscreen that has at least a level 15 SPF.
When you are surfing at a new spot be respectful of the locals. Surfers can be very territorial and not always tremendously considerate towards “newbies.” When starting out it is probably best to find an isolated break, or to ride closer in to the shore than the more advanced riders on some of the smaller inside waves.
When paddling into a wave you want to start paddling before the wave breaks. Start out far enough beyond the breaking wave that by the time it crests you are matching its speed. At this point you should feel the wave lift you up and then, it takes some practice, you push yourself up to your feet and “drop in” to the wave. The idea is to race ahead of the curling, breaking lip of the wave.
Initially you will probably find yourself dropping straight in and riding towards the shore. Eventually however you should be able to turn down the breaking wave face so that instead of riding in towards the shore you are actually riding parallel to the shore line. Over time you will learn to “kick out” of the wave, or ride over the back of the wave and clear of the crest before it breaks. In this way you will be able to get outside of the breaking waves faster and you will get more riding time.
Surfing is one of those sports that takes a little while to get the hang of. You can expect to go out several time before you really start to understand the way to position yourself on the surf board and paddle efficiently and quickly. Just floating on the board can be a challenge at first! But if you are patient and work hard at it you should be having a great time within a few weeks and getting better and learning more about the ocean each time you go out.
A final word of caution: The ocean can be very dangerous to novice surfers, and even experienced water men have lost their lives on the ocean. Always be aware of the hazard the ocean poses. Never underestimate that power and never turn your back on the ocean. Make sure you are in shape and of a clear mind before entering the water. If the conditions look too rough or the waves look too big for you there is no shame in saying “today is not the day.” Everyone has their limits.
Have fun out there!
